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With over 1,400 islands and hundreds of
destinations on the mainland, Greece has something for everyone. Young
revelers can head to the bacchanalian parties in the Cycladic islands of
Ios and Mykonos, amateur historians can explore the ancient Minoan
architecture in Crete, and beach bums can take their pick of endless
sandy shorelines. But for travelers willing to veer a little bit off the
beaten path, one region offers all of this and more: the Ionian islands.
Strung out in a chain slightly off Greece’s eastern coast, the Ionian
islands include Corfu, Paxos and Antipaxos, Lefkada, Cephalonia, Ithaca,
and Zákinthos. Ionian islanders take pride in their long and tumultuous
history: legend has it that Odysseus, Homer’s great hero, made his home
on Ithaca and stopped off on various other islands in the Ionian Sea on
his way back to his wife, Penelope. And during the four-hundred-year
occupation of Greece by the Ottoman Empire, the Ionian Islands were
never occupied by the Turks. Instead, they were colonized at various
times by the Venetians, the French, and the British — a history that
lends the islands a distinctive atmosphere. More recently, the island of
Cephalonia was featured in the book (and later, the movie) Captain
Corelli’s Mandolin, a wrenching story about the Greek role in World War
II that showcased the beauty and resilience of the island and its
people.
Despite the publicity generated by the movie, Cephalonia and the other
Ionian islands have yet to attract the hordes of visitors that swarm to
the better-known islands on Greece’s eastern seas. This has the distinct
benefit of keeping prices a bit lower, as well as ensuring that the
scenery remains relatively unspoiled.
Most travelers to the Ionian islands will start by flying to Athens (see
“A Very Brief Guide to Athens”). However, direct flights to several of
the islands are also available on Olympic and Aegean Airlines. Ferries
also run between all of the islands, as well as to and from the mainland
port cities of Patras and Piraeus.
Although the busiest vacation months in Greece are July and August, the
best time to go is in the late spring or early fall, when the weather
remains warm, sunny, and dry: The water is the perfect temperature for
swimming, and the ferries are still running regularly between the
islands. An ideal itinerary would be to arrive in September, fly or
ferry from Athens to Cephalonia, stop off in Ithaca for a day, take a
ferry to Paxos and Corfu, and fly back to Athens from Corfu. But the
good thing about island-hopping in Greece is that there is no “best” way
to do it — just be sure check the ferry schedules first!
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Photos courtesy of
the Greek National Tourist Organization |
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If the first stop on your trip to the Ionians
is Cephalonia, prepare to be enchanted by this island of
craggy-mountains, Homeric wine-dark seas, jasmine-scented air, and
cliffside beaches. The biggest of the Ionian islands, Cephalonia is home
to several sizable towns, including Argostoli, the capital and the
largest town; Sami, the port; and Fiskardo, a quaint fishing town with
several harbor-side restaurants. Only one of these, Fiskardo, was spared
from a major earthquake that devastated the island in 1953; the rest
have been reconstructed. Nevertheless, all three retain a timeless
charm.
For visitors with a few days to stay on the island, Argostoli offers the
widest range of hotel bargains and the best nightlife. For hotels, try
Vivian Villa, a charming guesthouse a few blocks north of the central
square. There, islanders and tourists alike mingle while taking their
evening volta, or after-dinner stroll. Several discos and clubs around
the plaza offer music and dancing until the early morning hours. And
numerous restaurants and cafés stay open until the crack of dawn,
serving Robola, a fantastic Cephalonian wine, and mezedes, or Greek
tapas, to hungry revelers.
Argostoli is a great jumping-off point for day trips to the other towns
and to the island’s many beaches. The best of these is Myrtos Beach,
known as one of Greece’s most picturesque playas. The drive there is a
bit nerve-wracking since the only access is a perilously curving dirt
road alongside a cliff, but it’s well worth it — you’ll be rewarded with
white sand; clear, turquoise water; and a gorgeous background of blue
sky and striated yellow rock that resembles a moonscape. Among the many
other highlights of Cephalonia are the nature reserve at Mount Enos, the
subterranean lake in Melissani Cave, and the stunning Byzantine church
at the monastery of Gerasimos, the island’s patron saint.
For exposure to a different kind of Greek icon, you can take a day trip
to Ithaca, the fabled home of Odysseus. There, you can tour the Cave of
the Nymphs, where the hero supposedly hid a trove of gold and other
valuables, and look for Odysseus’ palace, which has yet to be found (but
is rumored to be somewhere on the island). The best place for lunch is
the town of Vathy, where you can visit the archaeological museum and
then top off the day with a trip to the lovely Gidaki beach nearby.
On the northern end of the Ionian chain are the islands of Corfu, Paxos,
and Antipaxos. Island-hoppers will find that it’s easy to get to and
from Corfu, with ferries leaving from most of the Ionian islands,
mainland Greece, and even Italy. There are also daily flights between
Corfu and other Greek and European cities. However, Paxos and Antipaxos
are accessible only by boat from Corfu, so it’s best to plan ahead,
since the Greek ferry schedule can be complicated.
Known in Greek as Kerkyra, Corfu was colonized both by Venetians and by
the British. As a result, its eponymous capital town boasts both a
cricket ground (along the town’s gorgeously gardened esplanade) and
classical Italian architecture, adding a multicultural influence unique
among the Greek islands. In addition to its elegant design, the town of
Corfu is full of amazing restaurants such as Estiatorio Rex, a
streetside eatery offering island specialties such as stifado, a rich
meat stew, and pastitsada, a beef casserole. The town is filled with
tourist shops, bakeries, late-night coffee shops, and night clubs — and
true to Greek custom, nearly all of them stay open until early in the
morning, inviting night owls to wander the well-lit marble alleyways and
streets. There are several decent and affordable hotels along the town’s
waterfront, including the cozy and quirky Hotel Konstantinopoulis.
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Although the town of Corfu is one of the best reasons to visit
the island, Corfu is not without quieter attractions. Tourists
with a car should drive to the tiny town of Agni, where three
excellent beachside tavernas offer outdoor seating so that their
customers can eat yet another fantastic Greek dinner while
listening to gently lapping waves and looking at the clear,
star-filled sky. The island is also home to dozens of scattered
beaches, the best of which are on the island’s west coast. |
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Cephalonia/Photos on this page by Julia
Young |
For
unbelievable beaches as well as peace and quiet, the Ionian islands’
best kept secrets are the twin islands of Paxos and Antipaxos.
Accessible only by daily boat from Corfu, Paxos hosts mostly
day-trippers, which makes it ideal for tourists in the mood for a
quieter place to spend a few days. It has few towns, and even its
capital, Gaios, feels incredibly cozy — within a few days, you’ll know
many of the locals by sight. It’s a breeze to get around the
olive-covered island, and numerous paths make it easy to plan a hike or
a short walk from village to village. Neighboring Antipaxos is so tiny
that it has no towns of note — instead, visitors from Paxos head over on
motorboats or yachts to soak up the sun on one of the islet’s tiny,
Caribbean-toned beaches.
For the first-time visitor to Greece, the Ionian islands are perfect. A
visit to Cephalonia, Ithaca, Corfu, Paxos, Antipaxos, or any of the
other Ionian islands will not only meet your expectations for the
perfect Greek vacation, but it will leave you itching to go back. Who
knows — perhaps your visit will inspire you to embark on an odyssey of
your own. At the very least, you’ll have the type of vacation that myths
are made of.
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A
Very Brief Guide to Athens
To get to almost any destination in Greece, most visitors
need to fly through Athens. Long-disdained by Westerners for
its pollution, noise, chaos and dirt, the city has generally
inspired foreign visitors to hop straight to the islands at
the first chance they get. But the 2004 Olympics have
brought about a renaissance for the city. Even native
Athenians are awed by how much has changed: In and around
the city center, the streets are gleaming and polished, the
trash has disappeared, and even the traffic seems more
orderly. These days, it’s worth it to book a few days in the
capital.
Tourists who decide to stay a few extra days in Athens
should not miss Plaka, the ancient neighborhood surrounding
the Parthenon, Greece’s most famous architectural icon.
Paved in marble and a wonderful example of the blending of
the modern and ancient in Greece, Plaka’s streets are filled
with restaurants, street stalls, and scores of Olympics
theme stores. The ruins of the ancient agora, or
marketplace, are right in the middle of Plaka.
Another destination in Athens (within walking distance of
Plaka) is Syntagma Square. The city’s political center,
Syntagma Square is edged by beautiful old hotels, government
buildings, and the former royal palace, which is now the
parliament building. Every hour on the hour, Greek soldiers
known as evzones perform a changing of the guard ceremony in
front of the parliament building’s Tomb of the Unknown
Soldier.
Finally, a visit to Athens wouldn’t be complete without a
stroll through Kolonaki, a ritzy neighborhood north of
Syntagma that is full of coffee shops, haute couture fashion
houses, and people who vie to see and be seen. A great
Athenian activity is to buy a frappe, or iced coffee drink,
at the Da Cappo café. Its streetside tables are the perfect
location for people-watching and passing the time.
Athens is full of fun things to do, and any visitor
contemplating a stay there should check out
www.athensguide.com,
an entertaining and highly useful guide to the city, as well
as the Greek National Tourist Organization, at
www.gnto.com |
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