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After a couple of days in Delhi, we boarded a train for Jaipur, the Pink City. Located in the western state of Rajasthan, Jaipur was largely built using a pink granite, giving the city a colorful and festive atmosphere.
Jaipur is a gift-lover's paradise. Paintings, jewelry, carpets and brass figurines beckon the discerning customer, and flashes of brilliant color lure visitors into clothing shops. You can buy ready-made sarees and salwaar kameez (an Indian-style pantsuit) in every color imaginable, or you can buy the cloth and have tailored items made in a matter of hours.
My friend and I ventured out one day on a shopping excursion. Initially wary enough just to stay on solid ground, we eventually took to boldly careening through town on motorized or bicycle-drawn tuk-tuks (rickshaws). I still haven't figured out how the bovine inhabitants of the roadways manage to stay calm amid the chaos.
Jaipur is also home to several stunning forts in beautiful condition. The Amber Fort, whose construction began in 1592, boasts meticulously detailed examples of Rajput architecture - a mingling of Hindu and Islamic influences. Reaching the fort, which is set high in the hills, requires a jaunt atop a swaying elephant. Built of marble, covered with exquisite stonework and carving, and housing dark passageways and breezy esplanades, the Amber Fort recalls a time when Maharajas ruled over the land.
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The streets and alleyways of India are remarkably busy, with horns honking and bicycles swerving in and out of traffic all day long. A popular form of transport is the economical three-wheeled taxi, which can be motorized or propelled by human power. Saree-clad women can often be seen breezing along, side-saddle, on the back of a motorbike.
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A stunning array of colors greets the visitor to markets in the bustling city of Jaipur. Brilliantly hued sarees and salwaar kameez can be purchased off-the-rack or tailored to your specific measurements within hours. |
The third leg of the Golden Triangle, Agra, came next in our journey. It's easy to see why Agra's crown jewel, the Taj Mahal, is considered one of the seven wonders of the world - and the best-known Indian tourist attraction. The dramatic marble structure, built between 1630 and 1653 by Emperor Shah Jahan as a monument to his dead wife, Mumtaz, is an impressive presence. Tall spires reach to the sky, and the famed dome can be seen from a great distance. Inside the coolness of the building, two marble tombs lie next to one another, cradling the remains of a dead king and his lost love.
Our final destination in India was the holy city of Varanasi, located along the Ganges River. Named for its location between the Varuna and Assi streams, the city is a mecca for Hindus, who flock there by the millions each year. A short drive from Varanasi lies Sarnath, where Buddha preached his first sermon. The large stone stupas, or pillars, have gone largely undisturbed, although hawkers selling trinkets do tend to detract from the area's serenity.
Varanasi was a pleasant stay, despite the inklings of monsoon season. The narrow stone streets, slicked over in mud and cow dung, tested our footing, while the myriad shops selling incense, salwaar kameez, shoes, scarves and other crafts tested our willpower. Varanasi is particularly well-known for its cottage silk-weaving industry. People refer to Banarasi silk - using a corrupted name the city held for centuries - as some of the finest fabric in India.
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A ride to Amber Fort in Jaipur requires a jaunt on an elephant. Swaying to-and-fro on the giant beast as it lumbers uphill is tough enough, but getting off is a whole other experience. Here, the author is reluctant to make the final leap. |
Pilgrims flock to the banks of the Ganges River in Varanasi to bathe in the holiest of Indian waterways. The ghats, or riverside gathering places, are dotted with people long before the sun rises. A dip in the waters is believed to heal ailments and purify one's soul. |
One morning, as the sun was beginning to rise over the Ganges, our little group boarded a small boat and glided through the waters of the holy Indian waterway. Our guide told us of the healing power of the Ganga, the Hindu name for the 1,500-mile long river. Despite the severe pollution stemming from nearby leather factories, raw sewage and partially cremated corpses, the waters are believed to wash away one's ailments and sins.
All along the river's edge that morning, pilgrims prayed and bathed on the ghats, large stairways that bustle with activity. In the distance, wisps of smoke signaled a cremation, one of the most important Hindu ceremonies. Burning one's body ensures moksha, the liberation of the soul from the cycle of birth, karmic life and rebirth.
We had purchased little floating offerings, decorated with flowers and candles. Tradition holds that if you light the offering, make a wish, and that wish comes true, you must return to the Ganges and give thanks.
Wordlessly, my friend and I lit the wicks, buffeted by the morning breeze. Off the offerings bobbed, taking our wishes with them.
I can't tell you what I wished for, but one thing is certain: I plan on returning to that holy place.
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