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Brightening Up the Brown Mask
Hyperpigmentation is the most common skin problem Latinas face. Two experts discuss the best remedies to clear up those ugly dark spots.
Americans worship the sun. Unfortunately, its vibrant rays produce much more than just a golden hue. Damaging ultraviolet light can cause premature aging and even melanoma. For Hispanic women in particular, enjoying a bit of sunshine without the proper protection can also cause
hyperpigmentation, a skin condition that, while usually not a health risk, is a common cosmetic problem. It manifests itself in permanent brown blotches on the face, hands and other areas frequently exposed to the sun.
"One of the mistakes that Latinas make is assuming that because they do not have Caucasian skin they do not need to wear sun block," says Victoria De La Guerra, an esthetician and owner of Los Angeles skin care salon Faces and Bodies. "Hispanic women may not be as prone to skin cancer, but they are very prone to
hyperpigmentation." |
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Hyperpigmentation is caused by ultraviolet sun damage on unprotected skin and can also be an inherited condition, explains Tasha Noriega. Noriega's Tasha & Co. skin care line made its debut last September.
Even if a woman's skin is unblemished when she is young, dark blotches may appear with time. "Your older cells come to the surface when you get older," Noriega says.
The resulting "mask-like marks on the face," De La Guerra adds, can emerge and may become darker or lighter depending on whether or how much exposure to sunlight they receive.
Several different remedies exist to get rid of these unattractive brown blotches. Treatments can range anywhere from a $15 over-the-counter bleaching cream to an intensive IPL (Intense Pulse Light) Foto Facial, which can run up in the thousands. IPL Foto Facials involve "an intense light applied in a series of gentle pulses over the treatment area," says De La Guerra. "The heat causes damage to the vessel or lesion, and the body begins its natural healing process. Treatment can be given as frequently as every three weeks."
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Tasha Noriega's skin care line, Tasha & Co., can be found online at
www.tahaandco.com
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While before and after photos reveal fantastic results, the IPL system is very expensive (one salon gives an estimate of nearly $3,000 for the entire treatment). And critics, like Noriega, note that these treatments only promise a temporary cure. "The hyperpigmentation comes back anyway," she insists.
Noriega and De La Guerra instead have their own favorite remedies for dealing with sun damage and skin discolorations.
"I am a big fan of peeling the skin," says De La Guerra. "Chemical peels sometimes have adverse effect on Hispanic skin, but microdermabrasion is safe for all skin types."
At Faces and Bodies, De La Guerra treats clients who suffer from sun damage with a special herbal peel. The treatment takes about 30 minutes. It's a pain-free procedure that induces only slight redness, which is normally gone within minutes. For best results, De La Guerra recommends six peeling treatments done once every seven to 10 days. For deeply scarred skin, she recommends Dr. Christine Schrammek's 5-Day Green Herbal Peel.
De La Guerra has seen dramatic results from peeling the skin, and she herself boats a flawless, youthful complexion. Noriega, however, is cautious of peels. "Anytime you peel a layer in the skin, that makes you more vulnerable to the sun."
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Noriega prefers to treat discolorations with topical ointments. One of the most common ingredients in store-bought facial bleaching lotion is hydroquinone, but Noriega dislikes it because "it's a very harsh ingredient on the skin." The product that she says has worked well with her clients is her own line's Blanca Advanced Lightening Complex. The secret ingredient: Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, an all-natural antioxidant developed for Tasha & Co. by a research chemist. Noriega asserts that the daily-applied serum - which costs $60 for the oily-skin formula and $119 for the dry skin one - reduces "the enzyme pathways that stimulate damaging melanin production." |
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Doctor's Dermatological Formula (DDF) offers a hyperpigmentation kit that includes a Skin Brightening Cleanser, Fade Cream SPF 30, and Fade Gel. |
Once treatment for hyperpigmentation begins, it is imperative that proper sun block be used to protect sensitive skin areas from further damage. "Wearing sun block can help prevent wrinkles and more importantly skin cancer," De La Guerra says. Also, take care to protect your skin from acne and breakouts, whose aftermath can also cause those hyperpigmented spots.
In general, it is vital to make sure that your skin is receiving the nutrients and care that it needs to be healthy. Avoiding exposure to the sun is fundamental, as is having a proper daily skin care regimen geared specifically towards your skin type. "You can't give one product for all skin types," Noriega stresses.
Feeding your skin proper nutrients makes all the difference. "You must drink a lot of water," says Noriega. "I'm seeing a lot of dehydration, even on oily skin."
De La Guerra insists that it's possible to have healthy, beautiful skin without spending thousands of dollars on treatments and products. "There are simple and inexpensive tips on prevention and treatment of all skin conditions besides professional treatment and product."
The bottom line is that eating well, drinking lots of water, and wearing sun screen each and every time you step outdoors are the most basic and essential secrets to a lifetime of flawless skin.
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